2000
To Protect and To Serve (Your Gear)
by Dan Monskey (a64)
How well do you take care of the possessions that make your life easier, more comfortable and safer? I'll bet you wash your car and see that it is maintained; repair the house and paint it to give it a protective coating; you wash and mend or replace your clothing as needed; dust, wash, clean and repair most things around you because you want them to last and to serve you well. The care is easy for most things we possess, and much of it can be neglected for a while. But, you probably would not let a roof with a condition threatening to leak go without attention. You probably would not let an existing roof leak continue, or let a metallic grinding noise in your car go unchecked. So, how well do you take care of the gear that keeps you alive and comfortable when paddling on the river? Do you even know how to care for it-or have you been applying the same principles of care you give to other chores in life? Extreme-condition paddling gear is some of the highest tech clothing there is other than that of fire fighters, military pilots and astronauts. They have specialized training and support personnel to properly care for and maintain their gear. We tend to take care of our own gear, and with what background and experience?
I will bet most boaters have their gear packed up and put away for the winter and are focusing on off-season activities that keep them warm and dry. The information in this article may lead you to evaluate how you care for and store your gear on and off season. I myself thought I took good care of my gear until I recently had a set of gaskets replaced due to wear and tear. I spoke to the manufacturer's representative about some care concerns I had and was surprised about what I did not know. I would like to pass on a wealth of accurate information about gear care. It's amazing how little many paddlers know and practice about caring for their gear.
When I first began kayaking, I bought all the gear necessary to ensure a long paddling season for myself. I was told to take care of my neck and wrist gaskets to preserve them. 303, a protectant was always suggested, but someone misinformed me that ARMOR ALL was the same thing. The product was cheaper and I probably already had some at home for my vehicle. "Use that instead," I was told. WHAT A MISTAKE!!! I now preach against the use of ARMOR ALL on paddling gear as much as possible. Latex gaskets are a natural material that breaks down over time, just by being in the world. Latex is damaged particularly by exposure to petroleum products. ARMOR ALL contains alcohol that will dry gaskets and damage them immediately, drastically shortening the life of gaskets. The manufacturers and I recommend never applying anything other than 303 protectant to your gaskets.
Your gaskets and garments may be damaged by the obvious things too-such as sharp rings, wristwatches, earrings, bracelets, belt buckles and jean rivets. Remove these items or be careful of them when dressing for a paddling adventure. Sunscreens, insect repellents, lotions and our bodies own oils also destroy and/or shorten the life of the gaskets.
Be careful where you store your gear on and off season. High heat including sunlight, humidity such as in a damp basement or garage, or extreme dryness may destroy or shorten the life of gaskets. Exhaust fumes from cars and gas appliances, such as from space heaters, furnaces, water heaters and clothes dryers, may also contribute to deterioration. So keep this in mind when storing your gear. Do not put your gear where you cannot readily get at it for periodic attention. You may recall I mentioned gaskets break down just by existing in the world. The manufacturers recommend applying 303 protectant every 4-6 weeks, even when not in use and stored away. Consider their tip during the hot summer months too, when you are still paddling and your dry-gear is sitting waiting for cooler weather. "A little dab will do ya good" then too.
When you do apply the 303 protectant, be sure to apply it to the inside of the gaskets-as well as to the exposed outside surfaces. When you are using your dry-gear during the season, apply the protectant regularly (every or every other use). The film provides a protective shield against the sunscreens and bug repellents we regularly apply to our skin. Freshly wash body surfaces where gaskets make direct contact with the skin to rid it of harmful dirt and oils. Also, follow the directions for the skin lotions and apply them prior to dressing into your gear. This minimizes the amount of exposure the gaskets will sustain by allowing the lotion ample time to soak into your skin. The 303 protectant prevents the gaskets from drying out and sustaining ultraviolet breakdown. It also lubricates them, greatly easing the dressing procedure and preventing hang-ups which may ripped and broken gaskets.
Paddling-gear manufacturers say that you can expect to replace the gaskets on your paddling apparel but, with the previous advice, you can extend their life. If the gaskets need repairing or replacing, consult your local boating-gear retailer or the product manufacturer. They have kits available for the do-it-yourselfer, and local retailers may also offer this service. I prefer shipping it back to the manufacturer. They have all the proper equipment for the heat sealing of seams, proper glues and extensive experience for a quality job. They also can look over the rest of the garment for other signs of damage that may best be repaired by the manufacturer.
Most drysuit and drytop gaskets are made of latex, which is a natural rubber material. It is the most effective and comfortable water-seal material available for this application. The latex may cause problems for some people sensitive to this material. There is another material available called Neo-Gasket, which stands for neoprene rubber. This material is used less frequently, so it may have to be specially requested. It is much less flexible so the fit, comfort and seal criteria are more difficult to satisfy. There are solutions to combat allergic reactions to latex, though. For men, a fresh close shave and applying moisturizer prior to dressing in gasketed gear help alleviate this condition. Keep the gasket set low to the base of the neck to seat it as far from neck movement as possible. For those red neck rings you may still develop, apply cortisone cream after boating to hasten healing.
Taking gear care lightly is a serious compromise of your safety. There was an incident in Idaho early during the summer of 1997 on the South Fork of the Payette River. A man repaired the torn neck gasket on his drytop with duct tape prior to paddling that day. He was also wearing drypants cuffed to the drytop. While paddling he hit a hole and flipped. His repaired neck gasket blew, and his drytop filled with water, preventing success with further roll attempts. The man wound up swimming. Gallons of cold water compromised his buoyancy, making it difficult to move with the added weight in his paddling gear. The chilling water his entire body was subjected to also reduced his possible survival time. There were others in his paddling group attempting to rescue him. With the condition of his outfit, rescue time was greatly shortened. The man did not survive. There have been other stories about similar incidents during the recent past. Monitor your gear to catch signs of deterioration before a problem arises.
If you have a drysuit, zipper care should be of interest to you. There are two kinds of zippers for boating gear. One is called YKK Nylon and the other is a metal zipper with embedded rubber for seal. The zippers need to be left in the open position when the suit is not being used, including the relief zipper if you have one. If they are not kept open, the zipper materials retain a memory called "compression set". The zipper eventually loses its seal because it was left in its compressed state and cannot expand to maintain a seal when zipped. Also, if there is any shifting between zips, it may not be able to seal in its new position if the zipper has "compression set". This condition can also make the zippers difficult to open. The most frequent cause of zipper leakage is due to an incompletely closed zipper. So be sure the zippers are given a good "snug-tug". Zippers can also leak due to sand, grit or salt crust sitting in the zipper surfaces. So, rinse them well after use. Use care when zipping in cold conditions. Ask for help to keep zipping an in-line procedure to prevent de-railing. Clean and lubricate the teeth occasionally with paraffin, beeswax or a zipper lube. A dab of Vaseline at the closing end of the zipper will also improve the seal.
There are a few materials I have had experience with for the shell of a drysuit or drytop. Two of them are Urethane-Laminated Nylon which is frequently used and Polyester or Nylon-Laminated Gore-Tex. These materials differ greatly in ways that most people do not understand.
There is a urethane waterproof coating applied to the inside surface of the Urethane-Laminated Nylon fabric. A Durable Water Repellency treatment (DWR) is applied to the outer surface. This makes for a completely sealed system-nothing gets in, nothing gets out.
Gore-Tex gear has a little magic that is an added bonus for an added price. It breathes, venting perspiration without compromising the waterproof seal. The manufacturers have taken into account the immersion factor related to boating sports. Gore-Tex paddling gear is made with a special Gore-Tex membrane and polyester or nylon shell that is heavier than other Gore-Tex gear. The DWR coating is also applied to the Gore-Tex outer shell. They call this system "Immersion Technology" and it is definitely a waterproof product. The magic is that nothing gets in, but perspiration does get out.
Oh Man! An opportunity to surf some ocean waves comes up! You know it'll be cold so you need the drysuit or top, but you are concerned about the effects of the salt water on your gear. Don't worry-be happy! Gore-Tex apparel, designed for marine and water-sport application, can be used in any wet environment without harm.
People have expressed their doubts to me about the effectiveness of the Gore-Tex principles of the fabric breathing and repelling water when their gear is wet and immersed. The manufacturers say under paddling conditions colder than the human body temperature Gore-Tex works great. In fact, the greater the difference between the inside suit temperature and the outside environment temperature the more effectively the Gore-Tex garment will function. Condensation always seeks a cooler environment than its own. So sweat vapor will permeate the Gore-Tex membrane, which is laminated between two protective fabrics and either wick out through a wet outer material or pass freely through a dry one. So whether you are constantly immersed or are wearing the garment as a precaution to getting wet, the Gore-Tex will breathe.
Here are recommendations for maintaining these fabrics on your gear.
Rinse the garments inside and out well with fresh water after every use (or as frequently as possible) to get rid of any dirt, sweat residue or salt if exposed to a saltwater environment. Dry them completely before storing them. Salt attracts moisture, so gear stored with a salty residue will develop mold and mildew that will damage the waterproof coatings. Wash urethane coated and Gore-Tex garments on the gentle cycle of a large washing machine with warm water and use only a powder detergent. It was recommended to me to use 1/2 cup of detergent per full load of gear-a light detergent wash. Liquid detergents contain chemicals that destroy the DWR coating. Stop the washer during the rinse cycle to rearrange or invert the suit to get rid of soapy water trapped in areas of the garments. Never put a gasketed garment into a dryer for tumbling or drying. Non-gasketed garments can be dried on a low heat setting. Garments are damaged by bleaches, fabric softeners and even exposure to swimming pools. On gear with a stain on the fabric you can apply a pre-wash treatment to the spot, using a product such as Shout or Spray 'n Wash. Dry cleaning is not recommended.
The DWR coating mentioned earlier slowly wears away and needs reconditioning. Your new garment will possess a repellency property allowing water to bead up and roll off when splashed and immersed. Eventually, from wear and age, the garment will soak up water from the outside. Full penetration may not occur, but the full thermal properties of the clothing will be diminished. Heat will be sucked from your body 32 times faster than if the clothing was kept dry-per KOKATAT's Dealer Handbook and Product Reference Guide. The DWR coating can be restored either with a wash-in product for Laminated Nylon such as Nikwax (available at outdoor retailers), a spray product like Scotchgard or Gore-Tex's own Revivex for Gore-Tex. Ironing certain Gore-Tex products using a warm steam setting will restore some of the DWR properties, but check with the manufacturer to be sure. Before performing any maintenance procedures, including restoring this DWR coating, garments must be washed and dried. Read product labels before attempting to restore this repellency to be sure the right product is used on the your fabric.
Seal damages and rips to garment fabric on gear can be repaired using patch kits from retailers or by being sent back to the manufacturer. To test the condition of my drysuit, I put about a half a gallon of water in each leg and hang the suit up to dry the outside surfaces. I then slowly roll the water around the inside of the suit-sometimes letting it sit to allow the water to penetrate the inner sealed surface. Wet spots develop on the outside surface of the suit where there is damage and deterioration. I then dump the water and while the suit is still wet, I mark these spots with a contrasting chalk or wax pencil and allow the suit to dry. When dry, I apply AQUA SEAL or a patch material to the marked leak spots on the outside surface. This ensures a dependable seal when the swim test arises.
There are a couple of PFD maintenance considerations I suggest. Check the floatation to see that it is in good shape. Over time and use, the internal material can suffer abuse and deteriorate to a cracked, compressed and shrunken state. Also check the seams, stitching, webbing and stress points for wear. I have stitched mine up many times over the years. I once witnessed a paddler go over a 30-foot waterfall and surface with his PFD ripped off at the shoulders and lying on his skirt, strapped on only at his waist. So the forces of paddling conditions can push something that is hanging by a thread over the edge.
I hope this article has enlightened you. If you have any questions ask your local retailer or boating supplier. They can refer you to the manufacturer with questions they cannot answer. I have found the manufacturers to be very helpful and friendly to my wet and wild concerns. We are lab rats running the whitewater maze for them, you know.
