1999
Fall Magic
by Nancy Albrecht
We brought the maples into the yard so that we could enjoy for a few short days in the fall the brilliant reds and yellows of their coloring, so they could remind us of the flaming pageantry of the entire north whenever we looked their way, the poetry of shorelines and protected bays, the magic of seeing a lone and vivid splash of red against a whole hillside of somber green. "The Singing Wilderness" Sigurd Olson.
Thinking about fall and Voyageurs National Park brought memories of a trip I took some time ago... It was September, 1986, and I had just finished a field season at the park assisting with an osprey study. A new boat, and the crisp fall weather, had inspired me to try a solo canoe trip around the Kabetogama Peninsula. Now, the neat thing about a small boat in big water is that you don't make any noise, and very quickly become immersed in your environment. Otters play around your boat, perched birds become more visible and you have time to enjoy the reflection of colors in the water. Fall is a quieter time in the park as the summer visitors have left and the wildlife is preparing for winter (which is often just around the comer).
Day One (11 September 1986) -Whispering Pines, Lake Kabetogama to Black Bay, Rainy Lake: It rained lightly the first two hours or so but the lake was calm. The canoe carried me and my gear well. Saw a mature bald eagle toward the mouth of Lost Bay. It then landed on Wolf Island and called that strange eagle call which I had heard and not recognized last year near the Lund Cabin. Also saw a mature eagle near Nashota Point and two eaglets in and near the nest at Schoolteacher Island. Had lunch at Ellsworth Rock Garden where I ran into four tourists who said the fishing was bad.
Portaged at Gold Portage into Black Bay; like crossing into a different world. The portage stream ran through a cattail marsh full of waterfowl. By this time the sky had cleared and the sun was shining on a cairn Black Bay. Vees of cormorant and other waterfowl are taking off, one after another, over the north shore. It is nearly time for them to leave.
Day Two - Black Bay to Alder Cr:(Was up and on the water by 7:00 am, but so was the wind. Seemed to start out southeast and shift to the southwest by the time I reached Black Bay Narrows. Rough ride through the narrows. Saw several white pelicans sharing a rock with some cormorants, and more adult eagles perched on a dead snag. Rounding the corner to Rainy Lake, I had a nice tailwind. Paddled through to the start of Dove's Bay where I saw a doe and two fawns on the point. The fawns were running around at breakneck speed, ignoring their mother's warning flag. Finally she leaped away and they followed. I took the opportunity to make a cup of tea and then continued on through the back channel to Cranberry. At Cranberry, all hell broke loose as there was no windbreak against the west wind. I decided to ferry upwind to the south shore. It worked well, but was exhausting and I lost my hat in the process. Better that than me, though. Finally reached the other side and took a breather in the bay. After surveying the points I needed to get around, I portaged to the Mouth of Alder and then rode downwind in the creek. Thought I would lose it at one point, but managed to ride it through. The remaining portion to the cabin was fairly laid back. Met Edith and spent the afternoon lounging in the hammock and rereading The Snow Leopard. Am wondering if the wind will blow itself out by tomorrow or if I'll be marooned for another day.
Day Three - Alder Creek: Still windy. Stayed with friends at Alder Creek.
Day Four - Alder Creek to Finger Bay: At 6:30am the lake was calm. I was very thankful. Found my way into the Brule OK. It helped to watch a couple of boats go through first. When I got to Saginaw I first went west and then crossed at a narrower point. It was calm and peaceful. Overcast, but I like that for canoeing. In Hitchcock at 11:00 am, I stopped to have tea and cheese and crackers. Then went into Kempton Channel. It was beautiful - the red maples and yellow ash were a contrast to the evergreen backdrop. Stopped at the Kempton Bay osprey nest and walked in. No birds. The pond was gorgeous in its fall colors. Decided to walk back for my camera. Took a few photos of the pond and the drainage. Decided to paddle on for a few hours. Once out of the channel, the water was rougher, although there still wasn't any wind to speak of (NNE). Must have been the large, open expanse of Rainy; bounced around under the sheer rock of the south shore for a couple of hours and then called it quits at Finger Bay. It's very quiet and peaceful here. Walked into Peary Lake and sat for a while. Too long, and too little energy left, to portage in and paddle around, though. Grebe here tonight. Saw several loons today, and one young cormorant stuck out especially in the Kempton beaver pond. Also saw one eagle (mature) in the Brule and two perched on the south shore of Rainy a bit east of Kempton Channel; one mink in Kempton and one mink here in Finger Bay. Will be cool tonight - it's already chilly and the wind has picked up a bit.
Day Five - Finger Bay to east of Anderson Bay: The fog on the lake in early morning was beautiful, but by the time I was actually paddling (7:00am) it had lifted. Put in a short paddling day - the stretch from Finger Bay to Anderson was sort of hairy as I got tossed around like a cork, but I kept encouraging myself and the canoe and soon we were in Anderson Bay, a much calmer place. The rocks here remind me of huge sentinels giving notice to the traveler of their rugged nature but not unforgiving, I think. The area feels so much more remote and wild. I only saw one other boat. The day was clear to partly cloudy Reached the cabin around 10:00 am and made myself breakfast on the dock, then relaxed in the hammock for the rest of the day. Strung up the whiskey bottle and smoked a cigar. The stiff neck eased and I relaxed.
Day Six - East of Anderson Bay: Spent the day with friends... but anxious to be on my way again. The solitude of canoeing and feeling of independence are so grand.
Day Seven - to Beast Lake, Namakan: Woke early again, before dawn. It was raining - I decided to take off since it was fairly calm, and rain doesn't bother me. Made my way around the back side of Smith Island but missed the pass behind the next and didn't realize it until I came upon the red buoy. Flushed a mature eagle. Continued on into the American Channel and I felt much more at ease and protected. I was singing at the top of my voice until I came to a parked houseboat and then toned it down to a hum. Had a little difficulty finding my way to Kettle Falls, but pulled in around 10:20 am. A person was at the dock working on a motor. I actually snuck up on him. He gave me a cheery "hello" once he saw me and my bitsy canoe and offered to carry my gear to the Namakan side with his trailer. I accepted. After a stop for coffee and mac 'n cheese, loaded up and proceeded into Namakan. It rained hard for about a half-hour. Also was passed by a NPS Ranger boat that left a big wake! Almost turned south and east but found the right way OK. By that time I was really hungry but didn't want to stop in the rain. Followed Mica Bay all the way back. It's a very rocky, isolated, long bay. Found the portage to Beast Lake. It took me three trips with several rest stops before I got in. The trail was good though and the lake is beautiful in its fall colors. Several red maples all decked out on the shoreline, and yellow ashes. Their reflection in the water was indescribably gorgeous. Found the campsite. Only two groups had been there this summer, one in June and one in August. Made lunch and dinner, then set up camp rather leisurely and took a paddle around the big island and to the west end of the lake. The big island is wilderness for Voyageurs. Rocky ledges meet the lake; they are covered with mosses, Cladina (lichen) species, and Rock Tripe, another lichen. Sweet Gale and Leatherleaf grow out, fringing the island where it meets the water. The trees are predominantly jackpine - many crowded, thin trees -dark, like they had been touched by a fire. The next smaller island to the west was definitely burned over recently. Most of the jackpine are still standing, but the trees on the west side are all fire-scarred and dead. The vegetation underneath is just coming back. There is a huge beaver dam that holds a big pond west of the lake. It looks wild and quiet. Am in the tent now and it's still raining. I occasionally hear boats way off. Must be on Namakan. One of them sounded close to the northwest end of the lake -maybe on Rainy or in Peary Lake. Didn't realize how close I am to Peary Lake. Seems like I've backtracked a bit but it's worth it. Feel sort of anxious tonight. There isn't any bear sign around, although one has scratched the can. Hope I can sleep well. I certainly am tired.
Day Eight - Mica Bay to home (Kabetogama Narrows): What a night! Slept from 8:30 pm to 1:00 am and then was awake until 4:00 am. Finally drifted off and was awakened by the same x#/*! owl at 5:45am so l got up. Still dark and cloudy, wet and windy, but within an hour it brightened considerably. I felt tired though, and somewhat spooked so I made tracks out. The portage to Mica Bay didn't seem as bad as going in -still, was three trips. On my way at 9 or 9:30am. Had to follow the map pretty closely until I reached the south side of Kubel Island and got my bearings once more. Had lunch on Stevens Island and checked out the remaining home-site. Made me feel like I was trespassing. The messy buildings somehow give scant credit to the fierce independence of the man who lived here for so many years, and the mess reminds me of his hurried and unwanted departure. I can empathize with ambivalent feelings about leaving this place. Flushed a mature eagle off Stevens Island as I approached it. Otherwise not a lot of wildlife today. From Stevens Island the trip was straightforward and expeditious as I had a good tailwind between the back of Sweetnose and Foots Island. I saw a fisherman lose a bass by the green channel marker there. I surprised him. I had a headwind in the next stretch, but the last leg was smooth. A kayaker caught up with me at the mouth of Ash River. He was really moving! He had been out since Saturday and had gone to Namakan Narrows and back. Five or six boats at the mouth of the Ash River must be good fishing now. Home again...Once I reached the dock I felt totally exhausted. It was quite anticlimactic - no one there - but I was so tired it didn't matter.
Nancy Alhrecht, a VRNPA board member since 1990, is a regular contributor to the newsletter on the phenology of VNP. At the time of "rat' Magic," she was a volunteer research assistant at VNP. She was later employed there as a seasonal naturalist.
